Damascene inlay is a process traditionally used to inlay intricate gold and silver patterns on armour and weapons of war. Not to be confused with damascus steel (a type of very strong forge welded steel used to make sword blades), versions of damascene have been practiced throughout Asia, Europe, and the Middle East. In Japan, where it is called “nunome zogan” or “textile inlay” (for the cloth-like cross-hatched pattern which holds the inlay), it was used to adorn samurai swords and sword fittings. In Europe it can be seen in many museums decorating suits of armour and ceremonial helmets. The technique is perhaps best known in Spain, where the city of Toledo, once a centre for arms production, still produces many damascened plates, jewellery, and other souvenirs.

 

The method begins with engraving or chiseling a cross-hatched pattern into the mild steel ground. A thin gold or silver foil is then applied to the steel using hammers and punches.The foil, which is thicker and much more durable than gold leaf, can be cut into delicate shapes and applied in ornate patterns onto the steel. The textured ground becomes enmeshed with the foil during the hammering process, creating a smooth, permanent finish. The steel is then blackened with heat, to create a sharp contrast to the bright designs in gold and silver. Finally, the whole piece is treated with beeswax or lacquer to prevent rust.